Espresso dialling in is a daily basic for all baristas and serves as the mainstay of their craft. It is this fundamental process that guarantees customers the best and most uniform coffee experience every day. While the art of dialling in is rewarding when mastered, it can present some challenges. If you lack experience or know-how, the task can feel a bit perplexing or just plain frustrating. In this guide, we aim to provide a detailed, very approachable, step-by-step method to ensure your success and efficiency in dialing in your espresso.
What Is Dialling In?
The process of optimizing espresso extraction for the best flavor profile possible is what "dialing in" means. Ideally, baristas want to create an espresso that has all the right flavors present in the highest possible concentration. To get there, they have to adjust three main things: dose, yield, and brew time.
Each of these has a significant impact on the flavor of the finished product. When baristas are "dialing in," they try to keep everything as constant as possible and only change one thing at a time. This gives them a much clearer idea of what each variable is really doing to the espresso. Their goal is to hit the sweet spot, and understanding extraction is crucial to that. Baristas want to avoid both under-extraction (sour, weak, fast) and over-extraction (dry, bitter, slow).
Effectively dialing in espresso requires the following:
- Two sets of accurate digital scales: You will need one set to weigh your dose and another set for your yield. You can, of course, use the scales yourself to measure both, but the less you have to touch the scales, the more you are like an espresso machine. If you happen to have an espresso machine that can measure yield, then congratulations: you have achieved a larger scale set.
- A flat tamper: The more "snug" and "fit" the tamper is to the portafilter basket, the more enhancements to extraction you achieve—unless the coffee puck is so tight that it's been over-compressed.
- Portafilter baskets: First, let's think about these baskets. They should prevent the tamper from getting log-jammed (meaning stuck) and interrupting the tamping process.
- A bottomless portafilter: This is designed without a spout, so you can see the bottom of the basket. This will allow you to spot channeling – which is when the coffee puck becomes damaged or uneven – much more easily.
Parameter One: Dose
The term "dose" describes how much of the dry, roasted coffee is placed in the portafilter for brewing. Baristas commonly consider this to be the first and perhaps most important step in analytical brewing because it has such a strong influence on the outcome—that is, how "good" the coffee tastes.
The ideal dose depends on several factors (see below). However, the typical range is between 18 and 22 grams. At the very least, you should weigh your coffee and use the same amount every time you brew to establish a baseline. From there, you can vary the dose and note the differences in flavor and other qualities. Always remember that if you are using a smaller or larger amount of coffee, you also need to adjust the amount of water accordingly to maintain a proper brew ratio.
Choosing the proper dose can be difficult and may require some fine-tuning during the initial setup. Changes in taste will mean changes in other aspects of your espresso's prep. If you think you need to up the dose, do it in small increments. If you think your espresso might be too intense and just teetering on the edge of pleasantness, bump down your dose in the same small increments. Once you find the right amount, try to use it consistently so that you have a firm baseline for making other changes.
Parameter Two: Yield
What is meant by "yield"? It means the wet weight of the extracted espresso. But a better way to understand it is through some basic principles of extraction. Think about two of these principles when you consider yield:
- The higher the yield, the more water has been passed through the coffee – meaning a higher extraction level.
- The higher the yield, the less concentrated the espresso will be.
Now, how do we define yield with respect to dose using ratios? A common starting point is the 1:2 ratio. For every gram of coffee, we use 2 grams of water. This is a pretty good ratio, and if you're not getting it right with the 1:2, then either go to the 1:1.5 for a more concentrated shot or to the 1:2.5 for a more diluted shot.
Espresso requires dialing in, which is a delicate, demanding process that is very much like a dance. It takes patience, precision, and practice to know the steps and to carry them out smoothly over the course of the day. You can't rush this if you want to arrive at a destination that will delight your customers. Even if we know the ideal steps to carry out and the key parameters to pay attention to, espresso dialing in is as much a part of the art and science of the barista's work as pulling a good shot is.
Parameter Three: Brew Time
The espresso-making process has many variables. Of all these, brew time might be the most crucial and certainly the most flexible. It can and does affect the flavor outcome of the espresso in large measure, and if you're not thinking and not tasting with your brew time, you're just not dialed in, period. Most coffee shops aim for brew times ranging between 22 and 40 seconds, with the sweet spot often being between 25 and 32 seconds. Remember, though: the brew time itself is pretty pointless if you're not using it to affect the flavor outcome in some desirable way.
Brew time and flavor are directly related. If you don’t brew long enough, the coffee just isn’t going to have enough flavor. Brew too long, and you’re over-extracting (like the folks at Starbucks do). The scale goes something like this: too little brew time, too much acidity; ideal brew time, balance of flavors; too much brew time, too much bitterness.
When you change the brewing time, you have to take into consideration the grind size. An easy way to visualize this is to think about how water flows through coffee grounds of different sizes. With a grind that is too coarse, it is like using rock-sized particles; the water flows through the grounds much too quickly. These grounds don't have enough time to reach their full flavor potential. You would then want to try a grind that is at least a little bit finer in order to achieve the proper flavor balance. This is also, to be honest, a close-tolerance grind. Going too far to the side of too fine will lead to watery, over-extracted coffee. To achieve this close flavor-tolerating grind, an adjustable burr grinder is a good tool.
It is crucial to adjust the grind size in small increments. Although we tend to think of grind size as a kind of dial or continuum between "too fine" and "too coarse," in reality, getting a good extraction or even a decent cup of coffee using a specific brew method is often a matter of hitting the "sweet spot" on that grind size dial.
Setting the brew time, dose, and yield is only half the battle when it comes to making the perfect espresso. The other half is tasting it. What are we looking for? A harmonious balance of acidity, sweetness, and bitterness, with some combination of the four more pronounced or less pronounced in different espressos.
Tasting The Espresso
A brief indication of the balance of flavors possible is this: a well-extracted espresso is a sweet drink. Sweetness is primary in the espresso flavor hierarchy. When the espresso is under-extracted, the drink's acid notes tend toward sourness, and there's insufficient sweetness to balance the flavor. If we are over-extracting the coffee, then those flavors predominantly fall on the bitter end of the spectrum. We are using much more energy to extract out of those bitter compounds, and the drink may taste hollow. "Well" extracted means, in essence, "tastes sweet."
Assessing the quality of espresso in combination with milk is equally vital, as a significant proportion of the customer base favors milk-infused beverages. The milk's sugars and fats can serve to amplify the inherent sweetness of the espresso while muting and rounding off the sharper acidic or bitter notes that might otherwise be too pronounced.
Tips For Further Improvement
When it comes to mastering the art of espresso extraction, we strongly advocate for the following practices:
- Only change one parameter at a time. This will help you keep track of how your extraction is changing, and what’s causing it. For example, if you’re adjusting your grind, then keep the brew time, dose, and yield the same.
- Keep other variables constant. Create an evenly distributed bed of coffee in the portafilter, and tamp using the same method every time you pull a shot. Not distributing evenly enough or tamping too lightly will affect extraction.
- Make a dialling in journal. Every time you dial in, record your parameters, and figure out what works best. This will help you dial in more quickly and successfully.
- Stay hydrated. Dialling in often involves tasting a lot of espresso in a short period of time, which can affect your palate and obscure the more subtle flavours of each individual espresso. It can also mean you end up being over-caffeinated, which can cause dizziness, shaking, shortness of breath, and an increased heart rate. You should drink plenty of water before, during and after the entire process.
Espresso dialing can be an infuriating, yet rewarding first-step, from which you can almost taste your route to mastery and profitability. It has been my experience, both as a trainer and a practicing barista, that if you can break down the art of espresso extraction into significant variables, then further into individual espresso techniques, novices and experienced baristas alike will uncover the not-so-secret to consistently good espresso. That secret? Following your variables with damn good attention to detail and a medium amount of patience.
